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The Obsession: Neil’s Massimo Osti Jackets

At Oliver Sweeney, we've an obsession for traditional craftsmanship, and for mixing it with modern design. And whereas we all know that if you’re reading this you definitely share our obsession, there are also loads of different things out there that inspire passions to rival the Cobbler-in-Chief. With that in mind, we return to our editorial collection on Obsessions. Massimo Osti, the Italian menswear designer most famous for the Stone Island and CP Company manufacturers, was recognised by Enviornment Homme Plus journal as the ‘Most Influential Man in Men’s Trend of the ’90s’ and commands a huge following for his pioneering obsession for design and expertise. Describing himself as a "devoted disciple and passionate collector" of Osti’s work, Neil has an intensive archive of uncommon pieces that he’s been amassing for over 20 years.


The place did the obsession begin
It’s very much linked to soccer for me. I’ve all the time been a eager football fan, and from going to video games within the early to mid ‘80s you started to see the now-iconic compass badge on people’s arms. That caught my eye, and the jackets themselves have been in contrast to some other jacket I’d ever seen: fully different fabrics, looks and details. They only stood out, and made every little thing else look drab & uniform. I realised that they had been something simply fully totally different, and that actually struck a chord.


What made them fashionable at the time
Properly, that depends on who you imagine. Definitely there’s a college of thought that says when British clubs performed abroad, the fans were uncovered to new brands that they hadn’t seen earlier than and jumped on them. My very own view is that whereas there’s a component of that, the Casuals era was about one-upmanship; going to someone else’s city and making a press release by the way you dressed and the way you behaved. Those jackets had been standout jackets, however they were additionally extremely practical, because football stadiums have been very cold in those days!


However the jackets were undoubtedly a standing symbol too. The character of 1-upmanship means that tendencies change very quickly; what was in one week would be out the following week, depending on who you were and the place you had been in the country. I used see all types of various types around when i went to lots of different matches as a teenager, from the early ‘80s onwards.


What was your first Massimo Osti piece
It was a quite simple, plain ribbed crewneck sweatshirt that took me 6 months to save lots of up for. Naturally, I wore it to loss of life. I now not have that sweater, unfortunately. I’d say that it wasn’t until an excellent few years later - within the mid-‘90s - that I managed to afford to indulge my passion properly, as a result of the items were simply SO expensive.


Considered one of Neil’s earliest Stone Island items, this jacket is from the brand’s first-ever assortment in 1982


When did you make the transition from fan to collector
Effectively it wasn’t a aware decision. I find the best way to describe it's that the world is split into two teams: you both have gathering in your DNA, or you don’t. As a child I collected stamps and as an early teenager I collected soccer programmes, so it didn’t surprise me that I ended up being obsessed (or taken, fairly) by one thing else, which happened to be these collections of clothes. I realised it had change into a bona fide assortment when i couldn’t match all the coats into a wardrobe!


One in every of the newest additions to the gathering is that this field jacket from Stone Island Shadow Venture AW15


How many items do you could have now
The jackets I try to keep across the 200 mark, otherwise…well, it’s important to maintain some home harmony. The entire assortment including jackets, jumpers, shirts, POS and books is probably someplace between 400 and 500 pieces.


Do you find time to put on them all
Completely - that’s the crux of the gathering, for me. Part of the fun is that I can go into the rooms, see what’s there and then select something to wear. At one stage I did have the idea that I’d have one jacket for on daily basis of the 12 months! For the moment though, it can be whatever grabs my fancy at any given time, there’s no specific set plan. Obviously I have favourites, and items I only put on for particular occasions, but typically I put on as a lot of it as doable.


When exposed to temperature drops, the Stone Island Ice Jacket’s technical outer adjustments colour as demonstrated here


How does that affect the curation of the gathering
For me, it will get tougher to half with pieces. Through the years, you get to a point where almost all the things you’ve bought is one thing you really, really want. I’ve typically been fairly impulsive at shopping for issues, so I used to have a bunch of things that either had been the unsuitable dimension, or ‘what on earth i thinking at the particular time ’ so these are easily divestible with out an excessive amount of of an emotional downside. The sadness of 1 piece going is often outweighed by the joy of the following piece arriving. It’s always evolving, it’s dynamic, and it’s meant to be a set that is worn.


A few of probably the most fragile items in Neil’s assortment, these two jackets are made with real steel thread and are stone island sale kopen extraordinarily heavy


What do you look for when inspecting a brand new piece
The primary stone island sale kopen criteria for adding is that it has to be one thing I might wear, nevertheless outlandish it could look (especially given my age), however it’s bought to be one thing that I may match into. Then it’s about the small print, one thing catches your eye about the garment and there’s an instinctive, emotional attachment to it. The color, the fabric, the styling in a roundabout way of it, it simply there’s no strict pattern to it, but I should say I’m drawn to brightly-coloured items notably.


The label inside the Metallic Shell jackets explains how they're made (and consists of advice on tips on how to discharge static construct-up)


The place do you go to search out new items
Everywhere. Through the years, I’ve got to know folks all around the world! I’m a part of an internet community known as the Osti Archive Forum, and there’s quite a thriving marketplace there. eBay is obviously a hugely common place, but it’s harder to search out those uncommon items as its popularity increases, however it’s superb where issues crop up. The Metropolis jacket took me years to find because they’re so massive by way of sizing, however I finally bought hold of one when I used to be chatting to a guy who ran a retailer in Exeter and by pure probability he mentioned that he had an outdated CP piece in his wardrobe that he hadn’t worn for years…

The constructed-in pollution mask was an integral part of the Metropolis jacket

How did you feel whenever you found that
It’s a mixture, really. Clearly there’s big excitement and elation that you’re going to get hold of one thing; in the collecting neighborhood such finds are generally known as Grails (for apparent causes) and that was definitely considered one of mine at the time. I imagine gathering is a bit of like drug taking, in that you’re always trying on your subsequent hit; in some methods it’s the downside of collecting - you’re virtually never satisfied, there’s always something else that you want to maneuver on to. And whilst the fun of the chase and the hunt is incredible, there’s all the time appears to be that yearning for one more…just one more!


The now-iconic CP Company Mille Miglia jacket had built-in goggles and was designed for the infamous Italian street race


What’s the foundation of the appeal of those pieces for you
As soon as I acquired extra into the historical past of the man and realized all about the manufacturers, it absolutely appealed to me even more. I believe what I admire most about him is the creativity and dedication - he was absolutely devoted to experimentation, he never sat on his laurels and was keen to dream extraordinary issues - for example who would think of putting goggles within the hood of a jacket 30 years ago In the present day it’s an iconic piece. There’s a film they did for the thirtieth Anniversary of Stone Island which says that Osti put experimentation into the DNA of the whole organisation, and I think that’ nonetheless there at present.

The inside label from one of the earliest Stone Island Ice Jackets

Is there one that got away
A lot! When it comes to Stone Island itself, the Ice Jackets [Editor’s observe: finished with a thermo-delicate resin remedy, these chameleonic jackets are icons of the Stone Island model. The molecules of the micro pigments encapsulated within the resin change the trail of gentle and get darker as the temperature drops.] are my particular favourites. There’s a really uncommon model of the Ice Jacket that had a helicopter visor within the hood; I believe it was a prototype, not necessarily a production piece, however unfortunately that was one which received away.